Pork rolls...nope, not a direct translation.
From Paris: Uber, three trains (because two were cancelled), bus (mild panic) - Uber, ferry from Hyeres....got me to a very chill island. It is only fiteen minutes by boat to the main land and not far from some of the most glitzy, famous spots on the French Riviera and Cote d'Azur, including the White Lotus next season's location. It couldn't be more different.
I started to describe it a more Block Island than Nantucket, but that is wrong. There are no scooters at all. The only cars allowed are delivery trucks and an occassional Mehari (my future vehicle) that must have been grandfathered in. It is primarily pedestrian only and mountain or cruiser bikes. However, since the island is primarily accessible by dusty, rocky trails all the best spots are best reached by mountain bike. Some people opt to walk to the closer beaches or use e-bikes (cheaters, lol) to go further distances.
I chose a mountain bike and a chip on my shoulder.
Let me lead with the heat being a main character in the story and my primary traveling companion.... well, that's not entirely true. I had another that kept me company. Someone I enjoyed reporting in my daily adventures, and they could live vicariously through me. 16:00 was my favourite time of day, because they were finally up and I could do my daily photo dump and storytelling.
At first, I was very awkward on the mountain bike, because I spend most of my time on my Dutch , city bike. It is a bit heavier, has a basket, and does not have gears. Oh, did I mention the Netherlands is flat and below sea level. We aren't altitude training Olympians here, that is for sure. My legs and lungs felt any incline. Plus, it was freaking boiling, and I struggled to get my bike rig right (backpack vs bag in basket) with all the required stuff (liters of water, juicy fruits, sun block, and the right foot gear) needed for a few hours in the Sahara.
First, I went to Plage d'Argent: where most go, as it was close to town. Water was shallow and turquoise. The beach is tiny, and quite a bit of sea weed with limited spaces to sit. No frills, totally fine for a quick dip.
There was a beach shack with food, drinks, and a cute boutique that I hovered around at least five times. I never bought the shorts I wanted. I regret it. Note for future: if you go back five times to stare at a pair of shorts that are 40 Euro. Get them for heaven's sake. Now, I mourn my the shorts I will never wear. LOL.
That was a pretty easy bike ride for day one. The following days I pushed the distances and vowed to explore something new each day.
Next beach to tackle: Plage Notre Dame. This beach comes with quite a social media following. It was a 20 minute bike ride, but many people walked it as well. On unlucky days, you could be biking behind a tractor. Which means: you are swallowing dust. You are basically Pig-Pen from Charlie Brown when you show up to the beach. And, there are crowds. That being said, the water is crystal clear blue and it is a much longer beach. I see why it was called one of Europe's most beautiful beaches, but I have to say it wasn't my fave on the island.
One night, I was eating dinner and sitting next to a family who befriended me. They live in the Savoie area of French Alps (bike at high altitudes, this matters later). It was a UK family visiting the husband's father and his new wife who grew up spending summers on the island. We had a lovely evening watching the World Cup, and I embarrassed myself with how much I shout at the TV during sports.
The following day, I was out exploring, and I ran into them while biking. They were easily biking up the hill. I was working my gears to keep up and they reminded me I bike in the Netherlands. It was their effort to make me feel less embarrassed about sweat beads and large gulps of air while struggling to have a convo. They invited me to a secret swimming hole that mostly locals frequent. It was dodgy to get to and to hike down. Again, didn't have right shoes (flip flops, seriously Jen). I managed and found the most prestine water and snorkling spot. The water was extremely deep, but protected from waves by the giant rocks we hiked down. The water was calm and clear all the way to the bottom. It was deep blue, and you could swim amongst schools of colorful fish. The water was cold, which was a refreshing relief from the intense (to me)bike ride in the heat.
Later, they showed me how to continue biking up to the lighthouse. Which had stunning, steep cliffs and views to the sea.
The following days I discovered a new beach each day. One that I frequented a few times near Mas du Langoustier, one of the finer hotels on the island. It is surrounded by pine and eucalyptus trees. This ride took me up to an hour to get to (yeah girl, pushing yourself) , but there were several beaches nearby. One beach had red, fine sand, and one beach had black sand. Both were also places that boats anchored and the boat people would dingy to the beach and picnic.
My last day, I saved my longest bike ride and hike. It was well beyond Plage Notre Dame and up a steep ass hill. It took me a week to feel confident enough to get there. But, damn, it was worth it.
Batterie Des Medes is on the northeastern tip. Hehe. You can hike or bike there. It is a defensive structure and a French Historical Monument. Steep cliffs and rocks to hike up to. Expansive views of the heaving sea. 360 view. I met a few Swiss men who chatted me up at the top and before I left complimented my shoes (FINALLY). I was wearing On sneakers. They said nice shoes. I said, yes, they are Swiss. They said those are expensive. I said indeed. We laughed.
For a brief moment, alone on the top of a cliff, I wondered...were they going to steal my shoes? Since there are many "irrational" thoughts that happen as a solo traveler...I hustled away just in case. I love those shoes and it was too risky to climb down without em.
Building up to an epic ascent, it was the perfect way to end that week. The best part, riding down, out of the saddle, jiggling all over the place, and returning to my flat with a layer of soot all over my exposed, sunburnt, salty skin.
